The Speares

Living the life in Gravenhurst

Sakhalin Oblast

UHSI Iturup

 

 

Today we leave territory that is pretty plainly Russian and head into the dubious region between Russia and Japan. Specifically, we're headed to Iturup, also known as Etorofu-to and, incredibly, originally called Staten Island. When we get there we'll be simultaneously in Sakhalin Oblast and the Hokkaido Prefecture. So who do you call when the garbage doesn't get picked up, is what I want to know.

 

 

Pretty much right away we're in the Nadezhdy Strait. The current here can be as much as 5 knots which causes some egghead stuff to happen.

 

The weather's getting a little dodgey.

 

 

This is the island of Urup, and we're flying over the Urup Strait. Just back a ways was the Bussol Strait, which at one time was the preferred route for American whaling ships to gain access to the Sea of Okhotsk looking for Right whales. On the night of 27-28 April 1853 the Susan out of Nantucket was stove in by pack ice and sank in that strait, taking one sailor immediately and a second who died on the ice. Twenty five sailors made it here to Urup in two whale boats.

 

And now we're approaching Iturup, or Etorufu depending on your point of view. This is the start of the disputed territory, claimed by both Russia and Japan. Whoever owns it, it is a ruggedly beautiful place full of the Iturup Strawberry, Bamboo, and a 141 meter high waterfall that can only be approached by boat.

 

And here, literally at the end of the rainbow, is the little town of Kurilsk, also known as Shana-mura. No one here calls it Shana-mura, as all Japanese were exiled in 1947. But there's still a government office in Hokkaido to handle the family registry of Shana-mura residents. The town is known for fish farming, particularly salmon. Also it has a tsunami warning station. The things you learn.

 

So that's it for Russia. Tomorrow it's off to Kushiro. Bonzai!